Please read ALL of these instructions before beginning. This is a model of a generic shanty boat, based upon plans for a real houseboat. The plans were published in "Modern Mechanix" magazine, some time in the first half of the 20th century, and may be found at http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/coolwater.html. Some liberties with the design were taken. Scale is 1/72 or 25mm, and the model is intended to print at 7.5 inches by 10 inches (190.5mm x 254mm), so it should print correctly on US Letter or A4 size sheets of 90 lb (165 gram per square meter) index card by centering the image on the page, preserving the aspect ratio, and setting the image width to 7.5 inches (190.5 mm). Finished size of the model is approximately 3.75 inches (95mm) long by 1.25 inches (32mm) wide by 1.75 inches (44mm) high. As there are so few parts to deal with, they have been named rather than sequence numbered. Score all parts before cutting. Pay close attention to the slightly angled score lines on the wall tabs at the "FRONT" and "REAR" markings. These tabs support the roof at the correct pitch. All scored lines are peak folded with one exception: the rear wall at line "D" is a valley fold. -- Hull -- 1. Score where indicated by the dashed lines. Fold into a scow with the printed side out and glue. Set the hull aside. -- Deck -- 2. Score where indicated by the dashed lines. The tiny tabs may be removed if you desire. Fold all four edges away from the printed side carefully to 90 degrees. It helps to bend these edges over a hard, sharp table edge or similar edge. Flatten the edges again and set the deck aside. -- Walls -- 3. Score all tabs and where indicated by dashed lines. Note that the line at "D" will be valley folded, and you may want to score this line on the back after cutting out the part. Make peak folds at all remaining score lines and glue the two wall sections together at "B" and "F." Take extra care with these joins to prevent distortion of the "back porch" area when assembled. -- Walls to deck -- 4. Starting with tab "AB," glue the wall assembly to the deck where indicated. None of the white portion of the deck should be visible when this is done correctly. With the deck on a solid, flat surface, apply pressure to the tab while the glue sets. Glue tab "BC" next, again applying pressure. Glue tab "DE," then glue tabs "EF" and "FA" at the same time to finish this step. Once the glue is set, tweak the walls until they are fairly straight. 5. Carefully fold the edges of the deck down again, and glue at the corners, either with the tabs or simply butt-glued. -- Deck to hull -- 6. Apply a thin bead of glue to the edge of one end of the hull. Carefully fit this glued edge into the underside of the deck, firmly against the inside of the deck edge. Hold in place until the glue has set. Lift the deck and apply a thin bead of glue to the edge of the other end of the hull, and to the middle of both side edges as well. Fit the deck down over all edges and hold until the glue sets. -- Posts and rails -- ** Due to the extreme fragility of the rails, you may choose to leave the uncolored part between the two slender rails intact when cutting out these parts. ** 7. Score the rear rail where indicated. Fold the part carefully away from the printed side at all three score lines to 90 degrees. You may want to bend at "G" over a hard edge. Apply a small amount of glue to the bottom of the post at "G" and position it in the small green square at point "G" on the deck. Glue the two tabs to the corners of the walls at "C" and "E," flush with the walls and with the rails parallel to the deck. 8. Score the front rail where indicated. Fold the part carefully away from the printed side at all three score lines to 90 degrees. You may want to bend at "H" and "I" over a hard edge. Apply a small amount of glue to the bottoms of the posts at "H" and "I" and position them in the small green square at points "H" and "I" on the deck. Glue the tab to the corner of the wall at "B," flush with the wall and with the rails parallel to the deck. -- Roof trim -- ** Take extreme care and use a fresh blade to cut out these parts, otherwise they will curve. There should be no overhang of these pieces at their points of attachment, as they help to hold the posts perpendicular to the deck. ** 9. Select one of the chevron-shaped pieces and hold it with the printed side toward you, and the point of the chevron at the top. Apply a tiny amount of glue to the unprinted side of the left end of this part, and attach that end to the end of the post at the rear of the model at "G," flush with the corner. Allow to dry briefly, then apply a tiny amount of glue to the unprinted side of the right end of the trim piece and attach it to the wall at "F," flush with top and the corner. Apply a tiny amount of glue to the wall at the top at "E" and attach the trim piece there, flush with the top of the wall. 10. Attach the other chevron-shaped piece to the two posts at "H" and "I," flush with the tops and corners. 11. Attach the two long trim pieces to posts and walls in a similar manner, flush with the tops and corners of posts and walls. -- Roof -- ** The roof edge fits flush all around. ** 12. Score the roof where indicated, and fold away from the printed side to about 90 degrees, then almost flat again. Apply glue to the wall tabs "CD," "DE," and "EF." Attach the roof with the peak of one end at "E" and the corner at "F." Lift the roof slightly, apply glue to tab "FA" and attach the roof. Apply glue to the two tabs "AB" and tab "BC" and attach the roof. Apply a tiny amount of glue to the top of the post at "G" and attach the roof. Apply tiny amounts of glue to the tops of the posts "H" and "I" and to the peak of the front roof trim piece. Attach the roof. Construction of a suitable gangplank is left to the builder.